A collar speaks a thousand words. White collar, blue collar, open collar, even a punk-style dog collar. Each speaks volumes about the wearer’s mood, identity and background.
Well, the same goes for no collar. In recent years, the Grandfather Shirt has made a comeback. That’s partly due to its versatility and hipster-friendly aesthetic, but also because of what it says about its wearer. So, what might that be? First, let’s take a look at its intriguing history.
What is a Grandfather Shirt?
The most eye-catching feature of this type of shirt is obviously the collar, or lack thereof. More precisely, the neckline is referred to as a band collar, to distinguish it from the more typical turndown collar of a regular shirt.
Historically, the Grandfather Shirt isn’t exclusive to Ireland. Its style might remind you of movies you’ve seen about early 20th century factory workers in the north of England, or even of the famous American Gothic painting of a Midwestern farmer. And yet, it’s the Irish version which has caught the attention of so many in recent years.
What are the features of an Irish Grandfather Shirt?
A defining feature of the Irish version is that it has about double the number of buttons of a typical shirt, usually 14 or 15, spaced closely together at the chest, and further apart lower down. That might sound like a major time investment just to put the shirt on, but fear not, most people tend to leave the lower half buttoned up and treat the shirt almost as they would a sweater.
An Irish Grandfather Shirt with the traditional 15 buttons.
Another unique factor is the material. Originally, the Irish Grandfather Shirt was made of a type of wool, which was great for keeping you warm, but perhaps a tad on the itchy side. Many unnecessary rashes later, the shirt came to be made of more comfortable materials: usually either cotton or some sort of linen blend.
And as for the colour, simplicity ruled. The Irish shirt was either a single colour, often white, or else it was white with narrow stripes running vertically.
To see more examples, you can find a range of snazzy Irish Grandfather Shirts here.
Who used to wear these kinds of shirts?
In early-20th-century Ireland, The Grandfather Shirt was a working class garment, mainly for practical reasons. Farmers, labourers and factory workers had no need for a collar because they had no need for a tie: all those cows and sheep certainly weren’t going to be impressed by a silky necktie, and in the factory, a tie would have been a deathwish around all the cogs and wheels.
And so, the Grandfather Shirt became the unofficial uniform of Ireland’s working-class men, and emblematic of those famed generations who fought the 1916 Easter Rising and paved the way to independence.
In fact, the name Grandfather Shirt is thought to come from the fact that the breadwinner in families was often the grandfather. Times were tough, and people had kids at an early age, meaning it was common for grandparents, parents and children to live under the same roof. The grandfather was often the main paid “worker” in the family, and hence was the most likely to don this type of shirt.
Cotton or linen: what was the difference?
While the cotton version of the shirt was worn outdoors in the fields or indoors at the factory, the linen version was a fancier affair. The linen-blend shirt was typically a man’s “Sunday shirt”, meaning it was what he wore on more formal occasions like mass or funerals.
On such occasions, men typically pinned on a detachable collar with metal studs that attached to the neckline of the shirt. The collar was white, starched, and surely horrendously uncomfortable. But, of course, the addition of a collar now allowed for a tie.
The man would team his shirt and tie with some sensible trousers and perhaps a tweed vest, et voilà, suddenly he was the type of working man who “scrubbed up well”. Whether all this was to impress the Holy Spirit or the neighbours probably depended on the individual, but no one could deny it was a slick look.
Why is this type of shirt so recognisable?
The Grandfather Shirt was hugely popular at a pivotal time for Ireland, so you might recognise it from movies that depict Ireland’s Civil War and War of Independence, such as Micheal Collins or The Wind That Shakes The Barley.
More recently, fans of the BBC-Netflix series Peaky Blinders will recognise the shirt as being part of the iconic look of crime boss Tommy Shelby (played by Cillian Murphy), usually teamed with a tweed suit, a Peaky Blinder cap, and most importantly, a “don’t mess with me” attitude. The success of the series is part of a huge revival in some of its trademark styles, and the Grandfather Shirt is certainly included in that wave.
The character Tommy Shelby, from Peaky Blinders, played by Cillian Murphy. Image: CutiePieCP via Flickr Creative Commons
So, what does the shirt say about its wearer?
The Irish Grandfather Shirt is a garment that’s packed with history and connotation, suggesting that its wearer possesses a fondness for tradition, a hard-working earthiness, and perhaps even a rebellious streak. With all that going for it, it’s hardly surprising that it’s back on trend and the new favourite shirt of many.
You’ll find a full range of stylish Grandfather Shirts here on our website, and don’t forget to check out our collection of tweed vests to get the full, authentic look.
